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In the fall, flavorful roasted squash, the crunch of a pear, or the silky bite of a walnut are simple pleasures which make chilly afternoons feel as if they should be savored a little longer.
As we inch closer to October, we’re picking up our favorite produce from the market around the corner. The contents of our bags – and baskets will be the base of our favorite French recipes and spins on the classics.
Here’s what we’re adding to the shopping list this week:
Figs
Figs pop up in Parisian fruit stalls for only a fleeting moment each year. Whether green or purple skin, the sweet summer delicacy droops heavily on trees into October.
Sharon serves hers fresh from the garden with dry ham as a delicate balance between sweet and salty. Otherwise, we enjoy them served over ice cream for those days which start chilly and end warm enough for a cold treat.
To extend the season, we keep a few jars of local fig jam nearby to enjoy with cheeses such as Brillat-Savarin or brie all year round.
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© Camille Chamignon
Pears
Pears, like figs, are versatile, and are a treasured favorite in any French kitchen. While best enjoyed at the height of winter, they begin ripening in early fall.
The French have found a place for them in nearly every gastronomic arena. Served in salads to balance the flavor of salty cheeses, as complimentary texture and sweetness to poultry, and sometimes often as the star of dessert.
If it’s still too early in the season, but we feel called to use them, we’ll add candied pear to contrast softer notes in a pumpkin tart.
© Frank Schmitt
Butternut Squash
The French simply say Butternut when picking up this squash for their weekly recipes. Other options seem to pale in comparison – typically referred to only as une courge (a gourd or a squash). Of course, there are exceptions for zucchini and pumpkins, but the rest remain simply generic.
The French often roast the beloved butternut, then combine it with a whisper of grated nutmeg, a heavy pour of thick cream, and loosen it up with chicken broth for a silky warm potage (a thick soup).
Although we adore it this way, like other French favorites, the butternut is dreamy in so many variations. Served with butter liked mashed potatos or roasted and cool in salads. We enjoy it paired with pears and walnuts.
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© Frank Schmitt
Walnuts, Chestnuts & Hazelnuts
The French love for walnuts, known as les noix (nuts), is somewhat akin to the love of peanuts in the United States. They’re often found in baskets in French kitchens as an easy snack before dinner.
France is the largest walnut producer in Europe, which explains the nut’s place in the kitchen, but even more common are glossy chestnuts in forests and along some walking paths in Paris.
Groceries across the country are dotted with little cans and aluminum tubes of crème de marron, a spread made of ground chestnuts and sugar. It’s one of those well kept secrets in French pantries — enjoyed as a little afternoon indulgence with bread or in baking.
Hazelnuts are another go-to for adults and children alike. Harvested in the southwest of France in September, they arrive at markets and become the epicenter of sweet chocolatey deserts.
When baking around this time of year, we like to incorporate and combine these nutty flavors into a dessert, such as this velvety chestnut cream cake with hazelnuts.
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© Frank Schmitt
Mushrooms
Mushroom season is a savored tradition in France. Families share hidden locations in countryside forests, where they return year after year when the weather turns damp.
It’s a bonding moment, when the French trudge off the beaten path and collect hoards of chanterelle and deliciously coveted morel mushrooms. Whenever unsure, many take their findings to the local pharmacy to ensure there aren’t any poisonous lookalikes among the lot.
They can be enjoyed in a creamy risotto, in a saucy bolognese, or all on their own, pan fried in good butter.
© Jérôme Morel
© Frank Schmitt
Leeks
We can’t recommend incorporating leeks into home cooking enough. The oniony, somewhat nutty flavor is subtle, and the crunch is undeniably satisfying. We recommend making leeks an indulgence — something to cook down in butter and savored or served in a filling quiche.
Many French families incorporate leek quiche into the weeknight rotation. For those who love an adventurous rustic twist on a classic, we always recommend trying it with rocquefort – a salty blue cheese.
Otherwise, an easy leek and potato soup – something satiating and delicious, is one of our favorite ways to sneak in some extra vegetables amidst a midweek slump.
© Eve Cardi
© Cat Bude
Written by Jessy Brewer
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