Burgundy Travel Guide

by Natalie Becci
Photos by: Teddy Verneuil

Burgundy’s gastronomic reputation and impressive history make its capital Beaune and nearby vineyards amongst France’s most-visited destinations. But we’re sidestepping this for a moment, in order to discover the lesser-known but equally beautiful areas in Nièvre and some spots in the Côte d’Or – off the well-trodden Route des Grands Crus.

Villages To Visit


With the River Yonne winding through the city, Auxerre is characterized by its cobbled streets, impressive Burgundian-style monuments and timber-framed, colorful architecture. Make sure you visit the Église Saint-Eusèbe d’Auxerre, Clock Tower and the Quai de la République lined with boats.


Named one of France’s Most Beautiful Towns, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain is a medieval city famed for producing Anis de Flavigny, a candy. Its winding streets, cobble stones and verdant walls certainly make it picture perfect. Flavigny’s chocolate-box aesthetic saw it cast as the backdrop to the cult film Chocolat!


The capital of the Yonne valleys, Clamecy is set in one of France’s most scenic areas. The town itself is protected with a wonderfully preserved 13th-16th century core. It has a distinct cultural activity, there’s a month-long festival during the summer which welcomes various musicians.

merry sur yonne

On the banks of the river Yonne, Merry’s main feature is the impressive Saussois cliffs – a popular climbing site for nearby Parisians. Scale their heights and enjoy breathtaking panoramas above, or admire their beauty from below with a river walk.

Semur en Auxois

This sleepy town has been left to its own devices over recent years, but the medieval infrastructure and long bridge that leads up to it make it worth the visit.

Things To Do

village des antiquaires

21 Boulevard Saint-Jacques, 21200 Beaune

A few steps from the famous Hospices de Beaune, you’re sure to find something special here. This group of antiques vendors specialize in beautiful furniture, artwork and objects from the 17th to 20th centuries.

Chateau de Cormatin

71460 Cormatin

Make a plan to visit both the interior of this 17th-century chateau which is breathtaking, and stay to stroll around the beautiful formal garden and potager.

take a boat trip

he River Yonne runs through several of the region’s villages, including Auxerre, Clamency and Merry. Electric, sail or canal boat, there are numerous ways to enjoy the area by water. 

sample anis de flavigny

4 Rue de l’Abbaye, 21150 Flavigny-sur-Ozerain

Native to the town of Flavigny and first made by the area’s Benedictine monks, stop off at the Anis de Flavigny, a charming shop and little museum dedicated to this herbal treat. These candies are each made from single aniseed grain, repeatedly coated with layers of sugar syrup.

Where To Stay

Le Petit Manoir de Bruyères

5 Allée de Charbuy, 89240 Villefargeau

Just a few kilometers from the heart of Auxerre, this little manor house encapsulates French charm and style. Its leaf-strewn facade, toile de Jouy interiors, Louis XIII gilded dining room and surrounding forest will make leaving to tour the area quite the challenge!

Château de la Resle

‘La Resle’, 89230 Montigny-la-Resle

Between Chablis and Auxerre, Château de la Resle is a design-led boutique hotel where countryside tranquility and cutting edge style go hand in hand. There are only six rooms, each offering maximum intimacy in an informal setting.

Categorizing themselves as ‘ecoluxury’, Château de la Resle believes that beauty and finesse is compatible with sustainability, seen through their organic meals and low-energy power choices. 

Photo: @chateaudelaresle

Hotel des Maréchaux

6 Avenue Foch, 89000 Auxerre

Ideal for exploring Auxerre and the surrounding area, this 3 star hotel has everything you need for a comfortable stay. A heated pool, comfortable rooms, a daily breakfast buffet and a warm welcome. An easy choice for those that like guest house comforts with the perks of a hotel.

Hostellerie de Levernois

Rue du Golf, 21200 Levernois

Surrounded by the lush greenery of Burgundy’s vineyards, this 5-star is a wonderful base for a wine tour. The stately 18th-century buildings are hidden away in 6-hectare park, and also host a michelin-starred restaurant.

Photo: @hostellerie_de_levernois

Where To Eat

table de chapaize

Le Bourg, 71460 Chapaize

If you’re passing through Chapaize to visit its splendid Roman-style church, book a table for lunch at the Table de Chapaize. Get a spot in a sun and enjoy the menu made from local produce (truffles, chocolate, and goat cheese).

La Pause Gourmande

65, bis Rue de Paris, 89000 Auxerre

This unassuming little eatery delivers a consistently delicious menu with a focus on sweet treats. Run by a passionate young couple, come for lunch or around tea time to sample one of their home-baked pastries and a café au lait.

Photo: @liliinwonderland

Bistro L’Aspérule

34 Rue du Pont, 89000 Auxerre 

Japan meets Burgundy by Michelin-starred chef Keigo Kimura. Using locally-sourced ingredients, enjoy a 3-course lunch menu for all of € 27. Booking is necessary to bag one or two of the restaurant’s coveted 20 seats!

Photo: @lasperule_auxerre

Jean-Michel Couron

21 rue Saint-Etienne, 58000 Nevers

A discrete little restaurant with a humble exterior, but full of surprises inside. Very intimate with only ten tables spread between two rooms, one of which is ceilinged by 14th-century arches. The wine cellar, stock full of French classics, is also well worth the detour.

Comptoir St-Sébastien

9 Place Saint-Sébastien, 58000 Nevers

A grand and traditionally decorated bistro in the heart of Nevers that serves affordable food accompanied by an extensive wine list. Expect such classics as tartare de boeuf and foie gras de canard, and don’t hesitate to ask for pairing recommendations!

Photo: @comptoirsaintsebastien_nevers

Photo: @lasperule_auxerre

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